Inorganic Colors

Colors used in the cosmetic industry can be grouped into two categories: FDA Certified Organics which include D&C and FD&C dyes and lakes and Inorganic Pigments.

Inorganic pigments are controlled by the Food and Drug Administration. Prior to 1960, the only requirements for inorganic pigments were that they meet heavy metal concentrations as specified by the FDA. The inorganic pigments do not have to be certified as do the D&C or FD&C colors. By certification is meant that samples of the lots made are sent to the FDA for chemical analysis. The FDA will test the organic colors and if they meet their specifications, they will certify the given lot with a particular certification number.

The inorganic pigments do not have to go through these requirements. We do a chemical analysis on the colors and they have to meet certain FDA requirements. A listing of these color additives and requirements can be found in the Code of Federal Regulations 21, Part 73. Certain companies with global markets may also require the colors to meet European Specifications for iron oxides; or ED-172. These requirements are a bit more stringent. However, we do have materials that will meet these specifications.

Inorganic pigments are primarily used in pigmented face powders, foundations, blushers and cosmetics used in the area of the eyes such as mascaras, eyeshadows, liners, etc. They are generally dirtier and weaker than the organics and usually more difficult to disperse. Equipment such as Hammermils or Rollermills may be required to get optimum dispersions. However, in some cases, high speed dispersers such as a cowels may be sufficient.

Iron Oxides

Available in two grades: Standard (comply with US Title 21, CFR) and Euro Grades (also comply with E 172 regulations).

Blacks - A-1403, A-1404, A-1405, A-1407

Red - A-1201, A1204, A1206, A-1226, A1249, A1293

Yellows  - A-1301, A-1303, A-1307, A-1311

Browns - A-1104, A-1109, A1115, A-1156, A-1193

Ultramarines

The ultramarine family of colors includes blue, pink and violet. Ultramarine blues are synthetically produced sodium alumino sulpho silicates. Further oxidation of one of the finer particle size red shade blue produces violet. The redness of the hue depends on the degree of oxidation. An ion exchange reaction with violet produces pink. They are easily dispersed in aqueous media,, have excellent light stability and are very stable in alkali (pH of 7 or higher) compounds. Ultramarines are extremely acid sensitive and will release hydrogen sulfide in acid conditions. Their primary use is in eye products such as shadows and eye pencils as well as in bar soaps.

Blues - E-5100, E-5101

Pinks - E-5300, E-5302

Violets - E-5400, E5401

Greens

Cometic greens consist of chromium oxides which have an olive-like color with strong yello undertones and chromium hydroxide green that is stronger and considerably bluer,more aqua shade. The principle use is in the area of the eye and for bar soaps. They have a tendency to be very hard pigments and sometimes difficutl to grind and disperse. Both colors have excellent strength and stability.

Chromium Hydroxide Green - E-3100

Chromium Oxide Green - E3200

Manganese Violets

This strong violet pigment is a complex of manganese ammonium pyrophosphate. It is stronger violet than ultramarine and is primarily used in eye products. Manganese violet decomposes in water and cannot be used in hydrated emulsion systems. it is relatively stable in acid pH ranges. Along with the standard shade of manganese violet, we also offer material that is considerably redder in mass tone and tint. It is slightly weaker in strength, but more transparent. The red tone and transparency are benefits for customers using carmine in formulations. Addition of this grade will allow the formulator to reduce the amount of carmine required which will give excellent cost savings.

Manganese Violet - A2100, A2101, A2102

Iron Blue

Iron Blue is the modern name given to ferro ferricyanide pigments first synthesized by a German named Diesbach in 1704. It was produced commercially by a Frenchman named Milori (thus the other common name) in the 19th century. It is a strong, deep blue pigment that is primarily used in eye makeup. It is much stronger and greener than ultramarine blue. It bleeds slightly and can decompose in alkali systems. A big drawback in using iron blude is that it is very difficult to disperse. The types of iron blue available are Ferric Ferrocyanide, which has more global acceptance and Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide, which is not permitted for use in the EC.